MYTHOLM HALLOn the site of what is now the area occupied by playing-fields and sheltered accommodation for the elderly stood the original Mytholm Hall, probably the original place of settlement in the area. The place-name Mytholm begins to appear in Heptonstall parish registers in the early 17th century, associated with the family-names of Halsted, Wolsencroft, Shackleton, Jewet and Catton (all in various spellings).

A view of Mytholm sometime after 1833, looking up Church Lane.To the right is Bankfoot Mill, with the Eaves Mills further up the valley behind the church. Right foreground is Mytholm Hall, with Mytholm House (Bank Bottom) behind it to the left. The buildings to the left of Mytholm House were once stabling and a carriage-house, but later became an independent farm.
William Horsfall, in an article in the Hebden Bridge Times & Gazette of 26th May 1899, says:
| "The Mytholm estate belonged to the Halsteads of Erringden, but when the first Mr. King settled there it had become the property of the Cockcrofts of Mayroyd (hence the tale about 'Old Mayroyd' riding up to 'Milkinbrig' etc. from the Yew tree), of which family the second Mr.King married a daughter, getting a portion of the estate, and afterwards purchased the remainder from other interested members of that family." |
The Yew tree, which can be seen in the engaving as well as in the Tait view, was a famous local landmark. At one point James Armitage Rhodes was apparently contemplating having it cut down, and Peregrine Towneley of Towneley Hall rode over specially to protest (succesfully) against "such vandalism".
The King family mentioned here was that which inherited what is now the White Lion in Hebden Bridge when it was still a farm, and one of the few buildings in the nascent settlement. Samuel King married Mary Cockcroft on 18th February 1691/2, but there is no evidence that he ever took up residence at Mytholm. Samuel's younger son, James, however, was resident there when he died and made his will, leaving everything to his only child, also James. It was this second James who built Mytholm Mill (at the bottom of his garden).
The elder James King was a "soap-boiler" (as well as a land-owner) when he made his will in 1753, but the younger became a textile manufacturer, having a room in the Arcade of the Halifax Piece Hall in 1787. This may have been due to the influence of his uncle, Richard Greenwood, who was a webster, and the young James' guardian from the age of about 13. Note that to be a "soap-boiler"at the time was not a mean occupation, but rather something associated with entrepreneurs. Richard Paley, one of the four original partners at Mytholm Mill, inherited wealth as a soap-boiler and went on to become a major speculative housing-developer in his native Leeds.
The only surviving daughter of this second James King married Alexander Turner, a wealthy merchant (and eventual mayor) of Leeds; and they in turn had an only daughter who was to marry James Armitage Rhodes, also of Leeds. When Alexander Turner died in 1816 his widow and daughter lived on with the aged James King at Mytholm Hall. One of a series of items in the Hebden Bridge Times & Gazette entitled "Calderdale Horologe of Places, Characters and Events (By a Border Tyke)", dated 26th May 1899, tells us that:
"In or about the year 1824 Mrs. Turner died, leaving Mrs. Rhodes, her only child. The hall at Mytholm had been rebuilt in the present style by her grandfather. Before that time, the Kings occupied Mytholm Cottage, but when the ex-mayoress of Leeds came to reside with her father. She prevailed upon him to rebuild the old hall, which for many years had been occupied as warehousing, dwellings, &c."
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Mytholm Cottage still stands today, and can be seen on the Tait print, acting as a sort of gate-house to the Hall. An item in the same series, from 22nd May 1908 refers to some of the activities of James Armitage Rhodes,
"…After taking up his residence at Mytholm he appears to have made considerable alterations in the various properties included in the estate. The late Mr. Horsfall, in the article previously alluded to, very succinctly refers to it, and we could not do better than quote his description of what Mr. Rhodes did:- 'almost rebuilding Mytholm Hall, enlarging Eaves Bottom Mills, building Erringden Grange etc., re-fencing Old Chamber farms, and generally breaking up Erringden estate to alleviate the distress then consequent upon the decline of handloom weaving etc. Mr. Rhodes altered the front of Mytholm Hall, taking away the pillars, which formerly supported the apse or "bowed part" over the entrance, and placing the semi-circular portion underneath as at present.' Mr. Horsfall says further:- 'Mr. Rhodes improved the road towards Lumb Valley - the road in his early days running between Mytholm Cottage and the barn, which had in former times been probably a more important thoroughfare than the "Inner Lane" which afterwards became the turnpike. Some people profess that there is still a public right to water cattle in Mytholm Cottage yard, because the trough was formerly in the old highway side.' "
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James Armitage Rhodes came from a wealthy family of Leeds leather merchants, who had prospered sufficiently for him to be raised and educated as a gentleman. By the time he married Mary Turner in 1810 he was living at Horsforth Hall near Horley Green, Leeds, and had been ordained within the Church of England. This latter qualification he had taken on because he thought it became a gentleman, but he never had "the cure of souls" and only officiated in special circumstances for members of his own social circle.
He later became a J.P and seems to have re-located to Mytholm, either permanently or on a seasonal basis, at about the time St. James' church was being built (at his own instigation) in 1833, although he had preached at Heptonstall St. Thomas in 1827, apparently to great effect. In 1866 his wife, Mary, died, by which time the couple were living at Carleton, near Pontefact. In 1868 the Mytholm Estate was up for sale by auction, apparently for the financial benefit of the Reverend Rhodes' nephew, Francis Darwin, to whom he wished to do some good.
In the 1868 sales details, the Hall is described as:-
THE MESSUAGE OR MANSION-HOUSE called "Mytholm" now in the possession of Mr.Darwin and the Dwelling-House occupied by Mr.George Binns with the Pleasure Grounds, Barn, Stables, Coach-house and other Buildings, Gardens and Plantations containing an area of 10110 yards. The principal house contains large Dining and Drawing Rooms, Breakfast Room, Kitchens, Housekeeper's Room and Butler's Pantry, with a wide and lofty Entrance Hall, four Bed Rooms, two Dressing Rooms, large Music Room and Servants' Bed Rooms etc.
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The Horsfalls were the successful purchasers, and in 1901 they sold the property on to George Pickles (see above under "Mytholm Mill")
BANKFOOT
Bankfoot is widely known as the site of the Heptonstall turning circle. Bankfoot Garage occupied the adjacent site, but was pulled down in 2004.
Bankfoot Mill once stood on the site of what is now Colden Close. There were two, if not three, mills on this site and they were sometimes referred to as Bankfoot Upper and Bankfoot Lower. Both mills may have been corn mills before being converted or added to and some of the original mill buildings may have remained.
An "Article of Agreement" dated June 1791 provides for certain water-rights to be obtained from John Sutcliffe of Hebble End by William Patchett, Innkeeper of Hebden Bridge in Wadsworth, "for his Mill Millstead or intended Mill or Millstead situate and Being or now erecting in a close or Field called the Lower Holme being part of an Estate of the said William Patchett called Mytholm or Bankfoot in Heptonstall..." (note that being on the east bank of the Colden, and north of the Calder, the property falls within Heptonstall township).
In 1813 the machinery in the mill was for sale and there were nearly four thousand mule spindles on mules with 216 to 252 spindles and one throstle. It is not clear which firms occupied the mills until 1825 when James Bent - elder son of Hamlet Bent of Mytholm Mill - a cotton and fustian manufacturer, leased them from "Miss Patchett of Halifax" for cotton spinning. He continued there until his bankruptcy in 1833, at which point he had debts of £17430-18-8 against assets of £3760-5-3. His family seem to have rallied round however, and by the following year James was back in business, first at Staups Mill, and then later with his in-laws at Midgehole Mill.
In 1845 the mills were occupied by Horsfall & Robinson, spinners and manufacturers, who also occupied Salem Mill (on the site of the present-day Co-op in Hebden Bridge). Robinson was declared bankrupt in 1860 and Horsfall took over Hawksclough Mill. In 1883 the mill was leased to Crabtree Bros., who began by spinning and weaving cotton cloth but by 1911 had converted to the dying and finishing of fustians, particularly white moles and corduroy.
In 1971 the business was taken over by a Rochdale company and the mills were demolished.
After crossing the River Colden the terrace by the side of the river is Adelaide Street.

View of Mytholm
with Adelaide Street (bottom right) apparently under construction
On the Burnley Road to the east of Adelaide Street and almost facing the site of Bankfoot Mills is Bankfoot House, an imposing building which is now used by a vet. When the road-bridge at Mytholm was widened and the corner eased, sometime in the early 20th century, Bankfoot House was taken down and re-erected further back from the road, while the end houses on Adelaide Street were demolished (the street now starts with number 5).Beyond the terrace is an imposing house which is now used by a vet. The estate behind the vet replaces three 1970s tower blocks which were pulled down in 2004. Alongside is Bankfoot Terrace of flying freeholds.

A view looking across Stubbing Holme towards the Heptonstall
hillside in the early 1900s.
In the right foreground is Calder Mill (now occupied by Wireform) with the now-vanished Waterside Mill on the opposite bank of the Calder. Bankfoot Terrace is to the left of Waterside Mill and the buildings facing them across Bridge Lanes have now also disappeared.
MYTHOLM HOUSE
Mytholm House, which still stands on the hillside just above what is now Mytholm Meadows, may have been built as "Bank Bottom" about 1797 by Hamlet Bent, who had just become a partner in the business at Mytholm Mill. It was also, and perhaps not coincidentally, the year in which he married Elizabeth Haigh, a Wakefield heiress. The house was built on land bought from James King with a mortgage. (Though there may have been an earlier house upon the site, for Richard Varley - one of the original partners at Mytholm Mill - gave "Bankbottom, Stansfield" as his residence when baptising a son at Heptonstall in February 1789.)
Hamlet and Elizabeth had eight children, seven of whom survived to adulthood. Five daughters married out into business-connections in Bradford and Manchester, while the elder son, James, went into business in a large way as a cotton-spinner himself, at nearby Bankfoot Mill - where he was declared bankrupt in 1833, the year following his father's death. The family home was also offered for rent in that year, with an advert in the Halifax Guardian, Saturday May 25th 1833:
"TO BE LET, with immediate Possession, the Capital MANSION HOUSE, called UPPER MYTHOLM, the much admired Residence of the late Hamlet Bent, Esq., deceased, containing Breakfast, Dining, and Drawing Rooms, convenient Kitchens, Store Rooms, Cellars and Laundry, Five excellent Bed Rooms, Servants' Room and Attics, with Coach House, Barn, Stabling, Shippon, and other convenient and suitable attached and detached Offices of every description, in complete Repair, and forming altogether a Superior Residence for a Genteel Family. The Gardens are neatly laid out, and Stocked with the choicest Fruit Trees in full Bearing.
Mytholm is delightfully situate in the Vale of Todmorden, in a highly respectable and healthy Neighbourhood, Eight Miles distant from Halifax and Twenty-four from Manchester, between which Towns several Coaches pass the House Daily.
The Mansion stands on a small Eminence, about Half a Mile to the West of Hebden Bridge, and commands a pleasing and extensive View of the varied and Romantic Scenery of the Valley, the Rochdale Canal and the Public Roads.
The Taker may be accommodated with a few Acres of Excellent Land at his option.
To View the Premises and for further Particulars (if by Letter, Post Paid) Apply to Mr. R. G. AKED, Lee near Hebden Bridge; Messrs. SUTLIFFE & SON, Solicitors, Hebden Bridge; or Messrs. LUMB, Solicitors, Wakefield"
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However, the Bent family remained in residence until 1845, when the younger son, Richard Bent, died, and the widowed Elizabeth moved back to Wakefield. Their house and lands were apparently bought by James Armitage Rhodes, and re-united with the Mytholm Estate, which was then auctioned as a whole in 1868. Titus Gaukroger, a cotton-manufacturer who - along with his brother James - had at various times the mills at New Bridge, Lord Holme (or Gibson) Mill and Upper Lumb, then seems to have rented "Upper Mitholm" as his home for a number of years.
After him the occupants were Miss Sarah Ann Crossley and then Mrs. Henry William Horsfall, before it became untenanted for a while. An early entry in the Abstract of Title for the property is a complicated series of paragraphs dated April 11th 1901 which appears to show that Henry William Horsfall (a cotton-manufacturer at Mytholm Mill) had both leased his property to Thomas Riley and his heirs and mortgaged it to the Halifax Joint Stock Banking Company Limited, and that Henry William and Thomas Riley both having died (in 1887 and 1884 respectively), Henry William's heir - Frederick William Horsfall - was now, with the agreement and paying-off of the other parties involved, selling the property outright to George Pickles, a Saw Mill Engineer of 'Brigville', Hebden Bridge. Subsequently the house became the property of George Crowther, one of the co-founders of CVS (see Sandbed), whose family were the last to occupy the house as a whole, before it became sub-divided into four separate residential units.
ST JAMES CHURCH (St. James the Apostle) This church was consecrated by the Archbishop of York in 1833, being one of the "million pound" churches that were built all across the country with the reparations paid by the French government after the final defeat of Napoleon at Waterloo.
The site, and the stone with which the church was built, were donated by James Armitage Rhodes of Mytholm Hall - who was an M.A. and bore the title Reverend, although he was never a practising minister and 'never had the cure of souls', although he did assist in burials of local gentry. A site upon the prominence at Hangingroyd had originally been favoured, central to the developing township and facing down the valley towards Brearley, but the Rhodes' had only a life-interest in that site and so the current location was determined.

View of Mytholm and St. James Church
Originally still part of the parish of Heptonstall, the first curate was Thomas Chandler Curties (1833-35), a recent graduate of St. John's College, Oxford. He moved on to become the Rector of Frenchay in the Parish of Winterbourne (Gloucestershire) from 1837 to 1840, before returning in 1841 as the Vicar of Linton in Herefordshire in order to become married to Ann Noble, a widowed daughter of Hamlet Bent of Mitholm. The ceremony was performed at Heptonstall by the then Vicar of Halifax, Charles Musgrave. Most of the early curates did not stay in post for long, until the new parish of Hebden Bridge was created for the church in 1841. The first priest to take charge of this new parish as a whole, the Reverend Sutcliffe Sowden, was to stay on for twenty years and to be succeeded by his brother, George Sowden, who remained until 1899.
The Calderdale Family History Society has transcribed all of the Memorial Inscriptions from the gravestones in the churchyard, including one "In memory of two esteemed and faithful servants. Grace Greenwood died Feby 24th 1860 after XI years of service. Grace Hitchen died June 5th 1861 after XL years' service in the Family at Mytholm".
The Vicarage
The Old Vicarage as it is now known is on a site opposite the church. It was originally developed as two cottages by Hamlet Bent of Mytholm House, on land bought from Lord Savile. In 1825 these were in the occupation of Luke Horsfall "and others", but they were shortly after converted into a single residence, "Bankside" for occupation by Hamlet's elder son, James. In 1833, when James was made bankrupt, he was obliged to leave Bankside, and it was subsequently rented to Titus Gaukroger.
The Bent's property was amalgamated with that of the James Armitage Rhodes, and in 1871 Francis Darwin conveyed the title of a "Messuage called Upper Mytholm, a garden and part of a close called the Brink in Mytholm and a messuage called Bankside and land and tenements all in Hebden Bridge for a Parsonage House and other ecclesiastical purposes". This seems to have been a much needed appurtenance. The first curate, for example, lived at "Bell House, in Erringden" - a substantial distance from the church.
MYTHOLM SCHOOL
We are deeply grateful to Cedric Gill who has provided us with his researches on the school.
In 1869 a fund was raised for the erection of the St. James’s School, Hebden Bridge, which eventually amounted to £1527 15s, just £55 10s 3½ more than the final building-cost.


The list of subscribers
At the head of the list of subscribers are the Rev. J.A. Rhodes and his nephew Francis Darwin, former owners of the Mytholm Estate which had been sold off the year before amidst some controversy. Rhodes wrote to James Sutcliffe, his solicitor in Hebden Bridge, on the 25th June 1868:
“I quite agree with you in opinion as to the Consequences to be dreaded if Mr. Horsfall be the Purchaser: & I will send your Letter to Mr. Darwin for his Consideration. He may, I hope, be induced to withdraw the Triangular Piece of Land behind the Church, & that in front of it also from the Sale. I should think you are quite misinformed as to the former having been conveyed by my Wife & me to the Comt for the Church – and certainly it was not consecrated - I reserved it for a School: but I subsequently thought that it was too dark – as light is essential to the well conducting a School.”
Despite this reservation about lighting the land, known as Smithy Fields, was indeed to become the site of the new school.
The Trust Deed of 1870 which established the school at Mytholm provided that:
| “...a school shall be established for the education of children and adults or children only of the labouring, manufacturing, and other poorer crafts of the ecclesiastical district of Hebden Bridge and for the residence of the schoolmaster and schoolmistress of the said school and for no other purpose...” “...the school shall be established according to the principles and in furtherance of the aims and designs of the National Society for promoting the education of the poor in the principles of the Established Church throughout England and Wales...” “...the Vicar or principal officiating minister for the time being of the said ecclesiastical district or parish of St James. "Hebden Bridge shall have for the religious and moral instruction of all the scholars attending the school the use of the school premises and may use or direct the premises to be used for such purposes as a Sunday School under his exclusive control and management but in all other respects the control and management of the school and premises and of the funds and endowments thereof and the selection, appointment and dismissal of the schoolmaster and schoolmistress and their assistants shall be vested in and exercised by a committee consisting of the Vicar or principle minister of St James Church or his licensed curate or curates and of four other persons being members of the Established Church to be nominated annually by the Vicar or Minister and Churchwardens of the said ecclesiastical district...” (possibly the longest sentence that we have come across in any document!)
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The first stone of what was to become the Hebden Bridge National School was laid on 1st January 1870. The single-storey building was formally opened on Saturday 12th November that year, and was first used as a Sunday School on the following day.

A list of expenditure on the building From January 1871 it was used as a day school with John Longbottom as the first Master. His salary was £90 per annum (though £100 was wanted), with the promise of a house later – which, School House, was finally occupied about 1880 (and sold in 1954, for £1,100). William Dawson was appointed as an assistant to the Master on February 2nd, 1871.
The first Board of Managers consisted of the Churchwardens and incumbent of St.James’:
Rev. G. Sowden
William Thomas of Hollins House, Surgeon
William Horsfall of Underbank, Manufacturer
William Patman
Thomas Sutcliffe
J.Bairstow
Up to 1880 there were five masters. It was then decided to separate the Mixed from the Infants. Richard Mellor was Head of the Mixed at a salary of £100, and Mrs. Alice Mellor was Head of the Infants at a salary of £80.
A meeting was called on 26th October 1888 to consider enlarging the school by adding an extra storey and a fund was opened which had reached a total of £502 16s 7d by 24th April 1889. The work was undertaken and completed by 1st January 1890, at a total cost of £1,450. The stone used came from Mr. Lipscombe’s quarry at Out Hey, in Colden Road, and some of the other contractors’ costs incurred were as follows:-